The Edwards is back. After a massive fire in June 2018, it's only taken a year for them to return to trading. And rather than reinvent the wheel, they have stayed true to form. After all, if it ain't broke ... Which it wasn't.
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The 'new' Edwards looks, feels and sounds the same. The furniture and decor is pretty much as it was, save for some new booth and bench seating. Somehow those big tumble dryer light fittings survived and still hang over the dining room, a nod to the building's history as a dry-cleaner.
The space out the back is now a proper beer garden, perfect for big groups and functions. Outdoor seating on Parry Street is ready for summer evenings, and a few brave spring souls. There's a new kettle fire to warm the cavernous space. Music is pumping out of the Sonos speakers, everyone is excited to be back, to reacquaint themselves with a missed friend.
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And they've come in droves. It's Saturday night and every table is reserved for first and second seatings. Despite this, our waitress expertly looks after us all in our section, never missing a cue.
Like the venue, the menu has a familiar feel. Plenty of old favourites are still there, albeit with a fresh twist. Not surprisingly, the old wood-fired oven is gone, but slow and smoked meat (over coals) is still very much a fixture of the menu. Lunch and dinner offerings are the same, so you'll find a mix of lighter, snacky-type food, as well as bigger share plates.
We order way too much to start - there's so much to rediscover and learn anew. A rustic sourdough with light-as-air whipped butter and bone marrow is warm and and salty and tastes of lamb (one guess where the bone has come from). For old-school bakery memories, try the sausage roll with ground Borrowdale pork pressed so tightly it's almost back to its original texture. Cut into two pieces, the pastry is delightfully flaky and a subtle creamy black garlic mayonnaise for dipping runs rings around your standard tomato sauce. Eddies fried chicken wings are really crunchy and really big, yet so light and so lovely and juicy.
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Every other time I've been to The Edwards for dinner I've ordered the lamb, and fear not, it's back on the menu again, this time in a sweet and sour arrangement of pomegranate and hazelnut. I have to say, the original incarnation all those years ago - flatbread, yoghurt, roasted chats - was the best I've ever tasted, but from the looks of the tables around us, this version is pretty darn good. We decided to save the experience for another time, as there were so many other dishes to try, and gauging from our fellow diners I wonder if we will pay the price for veering onto the road less travelled? Everyone is ordering the lamb and everyone is happy. Next time, for sure.
The pasta dish is a raviolo - one single sandwich-sized pillow - filled with a triple cream brie and truffle with a bolognese sauce spooned over top. The pasta is al dente and the filling seems to pack a punch more to the tune of gorgonzola than brie, but I'm not complaining. The sauce is meaty and rich, and is rather familiar to what used to be the savoury mince on the breakfast menu.
Everything old is new again, right?
A double Portuguese chicken burger is quite the mouthful. Two chargrilled pieces of chicken take advantage of that smokey cooking skill from the kitchen, and paired with tomato, iceberg, cheese and a creamy mayo, is rather delicious with each bite. A side of the XO mayo sauce to go with the more-ish fries ordered due to the menu's claim of it to be "worth it, trust us", is a little disappointing - I'm missing the punch and just tasting mayonnaise.
There are some great looking dishes in the larger range, in addition to the lamb, such as a whole roast chicken, a snapper with lemon butter sauce, pork collar with smoked apple and almonds, plus a heap of sides, and these are perfect options for groups or tables of four-plus.
There is still a solid range of beers on tap, and a wine and cocktail selection to whet anyone's whistle.
The Edwards is back is fine form and we're glad for it.
Quick Bite
- What: The Edwards. 148 Parry Street, Newcastle West.
- Contact: theedwards.com.au; 4940 0112
- Hours: Breakfast, lunch and dinner, Tues-Sun.
- Head chef: Alex Hunter
- Accessibility: Yes.
- Take note: Takes bookings (recommended for dinner); fully licensed.
- Bottom line: Smalls $8-22, medium $16-24, large $35-80
- Must try: The lamb, by popular choice.
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