'No regrets' as Shaw family sells Canberra business

"We haven't officially announced it yet, but we've accepted an offer to buy us out," Graeme Shaw, owner and co-founder said of the property they've called home since 1998.

"We'll stay until the start of the new financial year and then we're out."

With wife Ann and children Tanya (manager) and Michael (viticulturist) in agreeance, Shaw said it wasn't a particularly tough decision to make.

"It would have been difficult if one wanted to stay on and another wanted to go, but we all felt it was the right time.

"It solved all our succession planning in one go."

The decision comes on the back of five tough vintages in a row - "bushfire smoke, rain, hail, frost ... you name it".

It led to Shaw buying the vast bulk of their fruit from other regions - and now that has progressed to include all fruit.

"We source from Tumbarumba, Hilltops, Gundagai, Eden Valley and the Barossa. We've built up some good relationships with our growers there and we're getting top quality fruit, with far greater consistency."

To give an idea of the vagaries of vintage in Canberra, in 2008 Shaw produced just under 25,000 cases - a year earlier they produced 17 cases . . . yes, 17, all riesling.

What's probably most surprising is that Shaw recently opened a seriously impressive - read expensive - state-of-the-art cellar door, to complement the popular restaurant next door.

So, with everything seemingly in place for a bright future, will it be hard to suddenly say goodbye?

"I don't tend to get emotionally tied to an asset," Shaw said. "People yes, but not assets.

"We've achieved what we wanted. We built up a good business, we weren't dependent on the banks, and the wines have been good.

"We won best cabernet sauvignon one year at the London Wine Show, best merlot at the Vienna Wine Show, multiple trophies and medals worldwide.

"As a family we've taken it as far as we can go.

"The new owners have indicated they will keep the Shaw name - initially anyway, after that it's up to them - which makes sense because we have a strong market in Australia, Asia and a bit of Europe.

"But they have the expertise and the funding to be able to take this to the next level.

"They have big plans not just for the wine, but for things like hospitality, weddings, accommodation, conferences, that sort of thing . . . so the future is very exciting.

"But for us as a family, it's time. No regrets."

Given any sort of decent vintage, Canberra bows to no-one when it comes to producing top-quality riesling. This is dry, almost razor-like, with driving, citrusy freshness and piercing intensity. The nose has white flowers and citrus peel, and on entry there's green apple and crunchy green pear. Lemon and lime play a support role.

This is a 60-40 blend of shiraz and malbec and has bright copper pink hues. You're greeted with strawberry, red cherry and watermelon flavours, all in easy-drinking harmony. Then comes a touch of balancing tartness - cranberry perhaps, and lemon zest. It finishes dry and clean. A rock solid rose, just give it a good chill.

This is their best of the best range and, after six years of ageing, it's drinking really well. It's smooth and silky with blackcurrant, aniseed and blueberry flavours, and a hint of graphite. There's a good carry of flavour, long and easy, with a pinch of spice on the finish. Tannins are chalky and fine, and oak is very much in sync. It's lovely.