Latitude 32 crew not thrown by hard work

It's not your everyday welcome, but then again, Latitude 32 owners Emma and David White aren't your everyday wine couple.

"We're learning the wine game on the run," English-born Emma is happy to admit.

They respect the Hunter's tradition, but aren't shackled by it.

The couple bought a 50-acre property in Pokolbin, including 15 acres of established dry-grown vines - but no cellar door - in 2018 after highly successful careers as senior finance professionals at large multi-national companies in the UK and Australia.

And while they've produced some wine in that time, bushfires, smoke, hail and COVID meant there was precious little of it. Plans for a cellar door stalled too.

But now, with the purchase of a second vineyard that includes a cellar door, things are finally starting to take off.

What they have in abundance is a passion for good wine . . . their successful careers enabled them to taste the finest international drops without having to worry too much about damage to the purse strings.

"We'd sit at home sipping wine and dreaming about one day owning our own vineyard and cellar door," Emma said. "There's no point having a dream if you don't live it and we were fortunate we were able to do that."

Latitude 32 - the Hunter's global position - officially opened on April 18 on what used to be the old Mistletoe site on Hermitage Road.

"We bought this property at the end of last year," Emma continued.

"We originally planned to build a cellar door on our home property on Deasys Road and plant more vines, but it didn't work out. So when this came up, with its cellar door and 20 acres of established vines that produces some outstanding fruit, we grabbed it."

It means Latitude 32 now has 35 acres of fruit in total over the two properties, covering semillon, chardonnay, shiraz, pinot noir and muscat. The plan is to plant more vines - in Emma's words, "go big or go home".

"We do the usual varieties, but also a chardonnay-semillon blend which is popular - I don't know why it ever went out of style - as well as the old Hunter Burgundy, a shiraz-pinot.

"And I'm a huge chardonnay lover, so we do two chardonnays."

Plus there's a couple of surprises, in very small batches, from other regions.

Up to date the winemaking has been in the safe hands of Damien Stevens from Hart & Hunter winery.

But future vintages will be overseen by operations manager Dylan Dower, who honed his craft under Liz Silkman at First Creek and Mark Woods at Leogate.

Latitude 32's first 50 members will even get their name on a plaque at the end of a row of vines.

For a new operation, there's a real sense of optimism. And why not - the wines I tasted were highly impressive.

No wonder Phoebe's tail is wagging.

Owners Emma and David White are huge fans of what used to be known as Hunter Burgundies - shiraz, pinot noir blends - so this wine in the portfolio comes as no surprise. It's velvety and soft and so easy to drink. Medium weight, vibrant red fruit, a drying, savoury finish, persistent length . . . it's all there.

This is one of a couple of chardonnays, and very much the flagship. Emma is a chardonnay lover, so a lot of effort has gone in to this wine. From 40 year-old vines, this has white peach, stonefruit, cashew and citrus. French oak is deftly handled. This has elegance and balance and oozes quality.

If Margaret River is renowned for its world-class chardonnay and cabernet - and rightly so - then this white blend is hot on their tails. A nose of lychees, lemon and herbs is followed by a zesty, vibrant flavour profile of slatey lime, grapefruit and pineapple - it all feels so fresh, spicy and lively.