New Lass O'Gowrie team turns up the heat on music and menu

"We're really happy," new licensee Declan Smyczynski says. "It's such an incredible pub. I'm still pinching myself with the opportunity to own it and grow it."

Adding a second stage to the pub, which is so well known for its music, is not the only change.

Chef Rob Maher has developed a new menu with Declan that focuses on affordable South American and Mexican share plates.

Declan has laid out a plan for seven-day trading, with the aim of bringing locals back to the pub during weekdays to complement the busy weekend music calendar.

Declan is a part-owner of the pub with Sam Cruikshank and Cruikshank's wife and his sister. They bought the pub 17 months ago, but have only recently taken control of managing the pub themselves.

Cruikshank and his partners also own The Oriental in Cooks Hill and the Seven Seas in Carrington. The three venues are now called "sister pubs".

Declan met Sam in 2016 when Declan starting working in the kitchen at "The Ori", known for its original pizzas. He had travelled overseas, working in Canada and London ("where I learned to make pizzas, funnily enough," he says).

Declan, who also owns a business that makes pizza bases for pubs and clubs, worked as a manager at the Seven Seas for a couple of years after Cruikshank bought it 2019.

"We love old pubs with a lot of character," Declan says of the owners taking back management of the Lass. "It was perfect for us, really. We wanted to take it on."

"We wanted to try to create a venue that has more of a local crowd for the afternoons. The pub was shut Sunday through Wednesday. We think a pub is a public house, that's what it is. So we want more of a local crowd through the afternoon and focus on our trade Monday through Sunday, and still transition into a great live music venue.

"We want to bring back the Lass to what it used to be: a great vibrant community pub, Monday to Sunday."

The menu has 10 small share plates featuring kingfish ceviche, Coxinha (Brazilian chicken croquettes), tacos, Birria taquitos, citrus and avocado salad), five main share plates (beef flank steak, half charcoal chicken, smoked double pork cutlet), and quick-eats sandwiches including cubano and drown chicken.

The Birria taquito is a traditional Mexican dish, often served in celebratory occasions, Declan says.

"We dip the softshell taco in the consomme, put it on the flattop, let it cook, put fillings in the middle, turn it over on both sides," Declan says. "It hardens it up, gets nice and crispy.

"Robbie cooked it up a few months ago and I said, 'This is definitely going on the menu'.

"There's a little bit for everyone," Maher says. "Old-school techniques and traditions. Cooking on live fire, fermentation, preservation."

Declan figures a group of four could buy two small share plates and two main share plates for about $30 a head.

There are various vegan options too.

Declan knows how important live music is to the spirit of the Lass. Along with the help of booking agent Gabe Argiris, they've worked to maintain all the music contacts and promoters who have run shows at the venue.

The music week starts on Wednesday nights with local DJs. Along with the Thursday night house jazz band, the Lass has started Sunday residencies, with a funk band playing from 5 to 7pm. On Friday there will be three live bands from 8pm to 11pm on the outside stage. Free entry, and local bands are a priority.

Saturdays will be a mix of promoter events (pub takeover by bands) and DJ events. Already booked for Saturday, July 13: Bloodyhell, Where's Jimmy?, Atlas Franklin Alexander, Les Poet'es Pop, Not Good Not Bad and Mishayla.

And there's a happy hour six days a week (not on Sunday) from 4 to 6pm with $6 beers.

The pub will continue to support markets on Sundays, and some of them will be ticketed events such as Newy Choppers booked for November 30 featuring Harley Davidson bikes and gear.