It's the biggest and most prestigious wine show in the world, and the numbers are mind-boggling: 243 international experts including 61 Masters of Wine, from 33 countries, head to London to blind taste just over 18,000 of the world's best drops.
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This year's annual Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) attracted entries from 57 countries including a few places that are hardly considered wine heartland - Turkey, Romania, Moldova, Slovenia, Morocco, Japan and Mexico to name a few.
Just 50 Best in Show trophies were awarded - that equates to the best 0.27 per cent of entries.
Australia, following a strong showing in 2023, again punched above its weight, collecting eight Best in Show medals, second only to France, which was awarded 12.
We also received 10 platinum medals of the 117 awarded and 53 gold medals, thanks largely to strong showings from South Australia and Western Australia.
Closer to home, Hunter Valley semillon was prominent with the 2014 McGuigan Bin 9000 semillon receiving 97 points and Best in Show. The judges wrote: "This is the sixth time a Hunter Valley semillon has featured in our Best in Show selection, so faithful followers of the DWWA results fanfare will by now be well acquainted with this unique indigenous style of semillon."
Other Australian Best in Show successes (all with 97 points) were:
Bay of Fires Pinot Noir 2022 (Tasmania);
Red Knot by Shingleback GSM 2022 (McLaren Vale);
Lowestoft Single Vineyard Jacoben Pinot Noir 2022 (Derwent Valley);
Fermoy Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 (Margaret River);
Penny's Hill Yeenunga Grenache 2023 (McLaren Vale);
Chaffey Bros. Evangeline Syrah 2021 (Eden Valley);
Stella Bella Luminosa Chardonnay 2022 (Margaret River).
Interestingly enough, while Burgundy and Champagne were the two most successful regions, none of Burgundy's three Best in Show awards were for reds.
Yet regional chair of the judging Stefan Neumann still named the pinot noirs of Burgundy and Australia as two of the highlights of the judging.
"The overall quality of these wines is just outstanding," he wrote. "It was such a joy to judge; we were running out of superlatives of what to call them, so really, really good."
Judges also said: "Prior to 2024, we've never had a Tasmanian pinot in our Best in Show selection. This year we have two."
A few interesting observations ...
For the first time, Beaujolais made it into the top 50, not once but twice, with both wines produced by Domaine De Colonat.
Japanese wine made an exciting debut in the Best in Show selection, with the nation's signature variety, Koshu. Judges described the Suntory From Farm's Tomi Koshu as "whispered tropical-fruit scents and a slender, darting flavour".
While the US west coast is well known for wine, for the first time Virginia and Pennsylvania joined the gold medal ranks.
The UK wine industry continues to thrive with its highest medal count yet, including a first-ever Best in Show for English sparkling rosé, which went to Chapel Down Rosé NV from Kent.
WINE REVIEWS
Top little production
Tarras Central Otago Pinot Gris, 2023
$50
Quite a small production, with just 220 cases made of this single vineyard wine from the Alexandra sub-region of Central Otago. But if it's short on quantity, the quality is impressive. It's made in a bigger, richer style but retains ample poise. Pear flavours, some apple, white peach and lychee, with a gentle lick of spice to finish.
Plush Mercer monte
Mercer Montepulciano, 2023
$32
The fruit for this well-known Italian variety comes from the Central Ranges. This is typical Mercer style ... soft, plush fruit, generous and round, followed by supple tannins. In short, highly drinkable. Red fruits, medium bodied with a floral and cedar nose, there are dried herbs, a dusting of cocoa, blueberry and raspberry.
Light and lingering
Silkwood The Bowers Pinot Noir, 2023
$25
This is a lighter-framed, easy drinking pinot from Pemberton in the Great Southern. Aromas are bright and appealing, with dark cherry, cocoa and a sprinkling of spice. The cherry carries over on the palate, along with tangy raspberry and blackberry. A lingering acid backbone holds everything in place. Good drinking at this price.
